Home Inspection Checklist: What to Look For Before Buying a Property

Exterior: Roof, Foundation, and Siding

Roof: Check the age of the roof — asphalt shingles typically last 15-20 years. Look for missing, curled, or cracked shingles. Inspect flashing around chimneys, vents, and skylights — this is where most roof leaks start. Check gutters and downspouts for clogs and ensure they drain water away from the foundation. If the roof is near the end of its lifespan, budget $8,000 to $15,000 for replacement depending on the size and pitch of the roof.

Foundation: Walk around the entire perimeter. Cracks wider than 1/4 inch are a red flag. Bowing or bulging walls, especially in basements, indicate serious structural issues that can cost $10,000 to $50,000 to repair. Look for water stains on foundation walls — efflorescence (white powdery residue) indicates moisture penetration.

Siding and grading: Check for rotting wood, peeling paint, or gaps where water could enter. The ground (grading) should slope away from the house at a rate of at least 6 inches over 10 feet. Improper grading directs water toward the foundation and can cause basement flooding. What to check when buying a rental property →

Interior: Windows, Doors, and Floors

Windows: Check if windows are double-pane (look for two panes of glass and a gas-filled gap). Condensation between panes means the seal has failed and the window needs replacement — typically $500 to $1,000 per window. Check that windows open, close, and lock properly. Drafty windows indicate poor insulation and higher energy bills.

Doors: Doors that stick or bind when opening and closing can indicate foundation settling issues. While some settling is normal, significant movement may signal structural problems. Check that all exterior doors have proper weatherstripping and deadbolts.

Floors: Walk through every room and feel for soft spots, sloping, or bouncing. Soft spots in bathrooms or kitchens suggest water damage. Sloping floors can indicate foundation issues or sagging joists. Listen for squeaks — a few are normal, but widespread squeaking may indicate subfloor problems.

Plumbing: Water Pressure, Drains, and Water Heater

Water pressure: Turn on all faucets simultaneously — kitchen, bathrooms, and outdoor spigots. If pressure drops significantly when multiple fixtures are running, the supply pipes may be undersized or restricted. Flush toilets while showers are running to check for pressure drops.

Drains: Run water in all sinks, tubs, and showers for several minutes. Slow drainage indicates clogged vents or pipe issues. Listen for gurgling sounds — these suggest ventilation problems in the drain system that can cause sewer gas buildup.

Water heater: Check the age — most water heaters last 10-15 years. Look for rust on the tank (a sign it is about to fail), leaks around fittings, and corrosion on the gas line or electrical connections. A failing water heater costs $800 to $1,500 to replace. Flush the test valve to check for sediment buildup. See how inspections fit into the BRRRR strategy →

Electrical: Panel, Outlets, and Wiring

Electrical panel: A 100-amp service is the minimum for a modern home, but 200-amp is recommended for homes with electric appliances, HVAC, and modern electronics. Check that all breakers are labeled. Unlabeled panels make troubleshooting difficult. Look for signs of overheating — melted insulation, burn marks, or a burning smell. Federal Pacific and Zinsco panels are known fire hazards and should be replaced immediately. Replacement costs $1,500 to $3,000.

Outlets: GFCI outlets should be installed in kitchens, bathrooms, garages, and exterior locations. Test each GFCI by pressing the test button — the reset button should pop out. All outlets should be three-prong (grounded). Two-prong outlets indicate old wiring that may not meet modern safety standards. Use a circuit tester to check for proper wiring — outlets that are miswired (reversed hot/neutral) are a shock hazard.

Wiring: Aluminum wiring, common in homes built between 1965 and 1973, is a fire risk if not properly maintained. Knob-and-tube wiring (pre-1930s homes) is outdated and may not be insurable. Both require expensive remediation. Budget for repairs when financing your first property →

HVAC and Insulation

Furnace and AC: Check the age — furnaces typically last 15-20 years, air conditioners 10-15 years. Ask for maintenance records. Clean filters are a good sign the system has been maintained. Look for rust on the heat exchanger (furnace) — cracked heat exchangers can leak carbon monoxide and are dangerous. For AC, check that the condenser unit outside is level and free of debris. An aging HVAC system costs $5,000 to $12,000 to replace.

Ductwork: Look for gaps, disconnected sections, or kinked flexible ducts in the attic or crawlspace. Leaky ducts reduce efficiency and can increase energy bills by 20-30%. Check that ducts are properly insulated, especially in unconditioned spaces.

Insulation: Attic insulation should be at least R-38 (12-16 inches of fiberglass or cellulose). Use a tape measure to check the depth. Inadequate insulation means higher heating and cooling costs. Check for insulation in exterior walls — you can remove an outlet cover on an exterior wall and peek inside with a flashlight.

Basement and Crawlspace

Moisture: This is the single most important thing to check in a basement or crawlspace. Look for standing water, mold, mildew, or a musty smell. Check walls for efflorescence (white mineral deposits) which indicates water penetration. A dehumidifier running constantly is a red flag that the space has chronic moisture issues. Waterproofing can cost $5,000 to $30,000 depending on the severity.

Structural: Check for cracks in foundation walls, especially horizontal cracks which indicate lateral pressure from soil. Look for bowing or leaning walls. Check floor joists for rot, insect damage, or improper notching (notches should only be in the outer third of the joist).

Pests: Look for termite damage — mud tubes on foundation walls, hollow-sounding wood, or discarded wings. Check for rodent droppings, which indicate an infestation. Most lenders require a separate termite inspection before closing. Termite treatment costs $500 to $3,000 depending on the severity. Estimate your monthly mortgage payments →

Should I attend the home inspection?

Yes, absolutely. Attending the inspection lets you see issues firsthand and ask the inspector questions. A good inspector will explain what they are looking for, point out minor issues you can handle yourself, and prioritize the serious problems. You will also get a much better understanding of how the home's systems work — where the main water shutoff is, how the furnace operates, and what maintenance is required. Plan to spend 2-3 hours at the property during the inspection. Bring your own flashlight and notebook to take notes on the inspector's comments.

How much does a home inspection cost?

A standard home inspection for a single-family home costs $300 to $600. The price depends on the size of the home, its age, and the geographic location. Larger homes and older homes cost more to inspect. Additional specialized inspections cost extra: termite inspection ($75-$150), radon testing ($150-$300), mold inspection ($300-$500), sewer scope ($100-$300), and chimney inspection ($100-$200). While it may seem expensive, a thorough inspection is the cheapest insurance you can buy against a bad real estate purchase. Skipping the inspection to save $500 can cost you $50,000 in undiscovered problems.

Can I negotiate repairs after inspection?

Yes, the inspection contingency in your purchase contract typically gives you the right to request repairs or renegotiate the price. The three main options are: ask the seller to make specific repairs before closing, negotiate a price reduction (you handle the repairs after closing), or walk away from the deal (the inspection contingency allows you to cancel and get your earnest money back). The most common approach is to request repairs for safety issues and major defects, while accepting minor cosmetic issues. Be reasonable — sellers are more likely to negotiate on items flagged as safety hazards than on cosmetic preferences. More tips for buying real estate →

What if I'm buying a new construction home?

New construction homes still need an inspection. Common issues in new builds include: improper grading (water flows toward the foundation), incomplete insulation, poorly installed windows and doors, missing or incorrect electrical work, and HVAC systems that have not been properly commissioned. Many new homes have punch lists of 10 to 50 items that need correction. A pre-drywall inspection (before the drywall goes up) is especially valuable — it lets you see the framing, wiring, and plumbing before they are hidden behind walls. New home builders are generally obligated to fix defects under warranty, but the inspection ensures you catch them before closing.

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